A: Pruning can be done anytime throughout the year. Dormant season pruning in fall and early spring is ideal, you can see the shape better and disease pathogens/insects are also dormant. This means less chance of infecting your tree or shrub during this time. Always disinfect your pruning tools after each cut.
Trees have few exceptions which include maple, birch and walnut. These should be pruned in July when they are in full leaf. This will prevent unwanted sap flow from oozing out of the wounds. By law, in Alberta, Elm trees cannot be pruned from April 1st until September 30th. This is in place to prevent Dutch Elm Disease. (DED)
Certain Shrubs such as lilac, form their flower buds the previous year. In this case, pruning should be done right after your shrub has finished flowering in the spring. Pruning at any other time will give you few to no flowers the following season.
No more than 1/3 of a trees canopy should be pruned per season. Always be sure to disinfect your pruning equipment after each cut to prevent spreading disease. Improper pruning can result in poor structure and become dangerous over time. NEVER top your trees!! If you are ever unsure about proper pruning techniques, call the store or consult a certified arborist!
A: Watering of all plants is critical for the first two or three growing seasons, sometimes more, to get your plants well established. We recommend to let the soil dry out a little between watering, to give the roots a chance to breathe.
Newly planted trees should get a deep soaking once every 7-10 days and shrubs every 4-7 days. Place your hose at the base of the tree and apply roughly one gallon of water per foot of height of the plant. A moisture meter is a handy tool you can use to check the soils moisture level.
All plants have their own requirements; moisture levels depend on temperature of the air and soil, the type of soil, humidity, precipitation or your water hose/pressure. Expect slow water evaporation in shade and clay soil and in cool and cloudy weather. Rapid evaporation will occur in hot and sunny weather, dry winds, sandy soil or when heat is reflected from dark surfaces. Mature plants need to be watered at the edge of their canopy (the drip line). This is where the younger, more active roots are located.
In fall time, all plants require some time to prepare for their internal dormancy. Deciduous plants lose their leaves and evergreens withdraw most of their sap into the roots. We recommend to stop watering by mid-September. By mid to late October soak the roots again, so there will be plenty of moisture in the spring.
Most house plants prefer the top 1 inch of soil to dry before watering again. Each house plant has individual requiremtns for watering and fertilizing. Our experts will be happy to assit you with any questions you may have.
A: If you cannot plant your purchase right away, keep it moist and in a shady protected area.
Dig the hole just as deep as the root ball and at least 2 times as wide. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole. Remove the pot, all sticks and plastic bands. If the roots are tightly bound, gently loosen the outer roots to encourage them to spread into the surrounding soil. Try not to disturb the roots on the inside of the root ball. If the trunk flare on your tree (area of the trunk where the roots begin) has been over grown by fibrous roots, you'll need to remove some of them to expose the trunk flare. Apply Myke® tree and shrub growth supplement to the bottom of hole and root ball. Place the plant in the center of the hole; making sure it will not be planted any deeper than it has been growing in the container.
Mix peat, manure or compost in with the soil you removed when you dug your hole. Use 3 parts of soil to 1 part amendment. Fill around the hole with the amended soil mixture, gently firming the soil around the plant.
Due to the high winds in Southern Alberta; most trees require a stake for the first year of growth. Use a strong pole, tie loosely with flexible, soft material allowing the tree to sway both ways. Some trees may require up to 3 stakes. Stakes should be removed a year after planting.
Water thoroughly to remove all air pockets and settle the soil. Deeply soak the ground around the plant after planting.
Fertilizing; if you didn't use Mykes Tree and Shrub growth suppliment, you can use a transplant fertilizer. Rapid grow 10-52-10 or Canada Nurseryland transplant fertilizer 5-15-5 are good choices.
A: All plants have different nutrient requirements throughout their growth cycle. It is ideal to do soil test before you start adding any kind of fertilizer to your soil. For example, if you have too much nitrogen; plants will produce lots of green lush top growth but litte to no blossoms.
Spring, just as plants are beginning to grow; is the ideal time to add a well-balanced all-purpose fertilizer. It is important to mix and apply fertilizer as directed. Always follow the label; more is not necessarily better!
Trees and shrubs can be fertilized up until the end of July. After this time, they need to start to ready themselves for winter. Rage Plus (0-0-6) is a great fall fertilizer for all plants. This will help build regular plant health and boost winter hardiness.
Adding soil amendments such as composts, manures and Nurseryland fish soil to your garden are a great way to naturally enhance your soil and supply nutrients. Amendments can be added either early spring, as you ready your garden or in fall as you're cleaning up and preparing for winter.
A: Living in southern Alberta makes for some tough growing conditions. The warm sun, varying temperatures and drying winds during the winter can cause your needles to turn a reddish brown colour. Most evergreens will bounce back after taking on mild damage but will take some time to do so. A deep fall watering and proper fertilizing program will help reduce the risk of damage to your evergreens.
Browning of evergreens isn't always caused by winter damage. Browning can be a sign of disease or pest infestation. It is always good to continue to monitor your trees using an Integrated Pest Management Program (IPM). If browning continues to worsen through the growing season, you are always welcome to stop by the store or give us a call for advice.
A: Whether you have indoor or outdoor plants, pests can be a common and troublesome occurrence. Unfortunately, not every pest is easy to treat. The best way to control pests in your garden or home is to implement an Integrated Pest Management Program (IPM). This involves constantly monitoring the garden for pests. You will set a threshold limit for the severity of your infestation at which you will begin to treat them. IPM includes using cultural, mechanical and chemical methods. Chemical sprays should be your last resort and should always be applied according to label specifications.
Safers Insecticidal Soap is an organic (OMRI Listed) option, which treats common pests such as aphids, mealy bugs, whitefly, spider mites and more. It can be used on houseplants, fruits, veggies, flowers, trees and shurbs. Always read the label before applying.
We are happy to help you identify your plant pests and assist you with treatment options. You can also visit us in the store or contact one of our experts via Ask An Expert